All about coffee — Context and Discussion

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Ukers, William H. (William Harrison), 1873-1945 Project Gutenberg 2009
Coffee; Coffee Industry; Drinking customs Readers of public-domain and historical texts
Project Gutenberg digital edition en

Edition facts

Words: 411,012
Reading time: 1788 min
Text sections: 92
William H. Ukers' 1922 compendium exhaustively catalogs coffee's botany, trade, preparation, and social history, drawing on seventeen years of research and featuring a Coffee Thesaurus, Chronology, and 1,380-reference Bibliography.
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Editorial Edition Score 4.9/5

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Edition quality

William H. Ukers opens All About Coffee with a confession of seventeen years of research, a span that included travel through coffee-producing countries and correspondence with researchers in European libraries and museums. The preface announces a work built on sorting and classification begun a decade before the writing, which itself extended over four years. This scale—nearly 1,800 estimated reading minutes across ninety-two text sections—signals an ambition to be definitive. Ukers names his predecessors: Robinson's Early History of Coffee Houses in England (1893) and Jardin's Le Café (1895), while noting that no serious American work on coffee had appeared since Thurber's 1881 volume. The author's method, he states, was to verify historical facts through independent research, sometimes requiring months to confirm or disprove a single item.

A Reference Architecture, Not a Narrative

Ukers organizes his material as a reference work rather than a continuous story. The preface lists four unique features: a Coffee Thesaurus, a Coffee Chronology with 492 dates, a Complete Reference Table of Principal Kinds of Coffee, and a Coffee Bibliography containing 1,380 references. These apparatuses frame the text as a tool for consultation. The chronology, for instance, appears to anchor the historical sections, while the bibliography signals the author's reliance on sources in multiple languages—Arabian, French, English, German, and Italian. The reader encountering the book for the first time should expect to move between these reference sections and the main text, not to follow a single argument from start to finish.

Diction of the Trade: Precision and Period

Ukers' vocabulary reflects his professional audience. He writes of "Santos 4's" dropping to "three and fifty-five hundredths cents" on the New York Coffee Exchange, of "gear-driven electric coffee mills," and of "automatic adjustable carton-sealing, wax-wrapping machines." The prose is dense with proper nouns—Enterprise Manufacturing Company, Huntley Manufacturing Company, Jagenberg Machine Company—and with patent dates and model names. This is not a general history but a trade journal editor's compilation. The diction is precise, sometimes to the point of opacity for a general reader: "fancy duplex paper bag made by machinery from a roll of paper ... of sulphite fiber inside, and glassine outside." The author assumes familiarity with the coffee industry's technical and commercial landscape.

Voice of the Compiler: Authoritative and Acknowledging

Ukers' authorial voice is that of a compiler who both asserts authority and credits helpers. He writes in the first person in the preface—"the author of this work made his first trip abroad"—but the body text shifts to an impersonal, declarative style. He acknowledges contributions: the chapters on chemistry and pharmacology were prepared under his direction by Charles W. Trigg of the Mellon Institute. He thanks correspondents and previous scholars. This dual stance—personal in framing, impersonal in exposition—creates a tone of measured expertise. The reader is never addressed directly; the book is a repository, not a conversation.

Structure as Evidence of Scope

The excerpts reveal a book organized by topic rather than chronology, though a chronological thread runs through the history of soluble coffee, patents, and trade events. The text moves from the preface's research narrative to a list of innovations: the first gear-driven electric coffee mill (1900), the first issue of The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal (1901), the first U.S. patent on an electric coffee roaster (1903). Each entry is a discrete fact, often with a parenthetical cross-reference to another chapter. The structure is additive, not argumentative. Readers should use the table of contents and index to navigate; the book rewards targeted searches for specific machines, dates, or persons rather than sequential reading.

Ukers' work is best approached as a reference encyclopedia of the coffee world up to 1922. Its value lies in the density of verifiable detail—patent numbers, company names, price records, and bibliographic citations—rather than in narrative sweep. Readers interested in the social history of coffee houses or the cultural meanings of the drink will find only fragments here; the book's strength is its documentation of the trade's material and commercial infrastructure. For those studying the history of technology, marketing, or commodity chains, All About Coffee offers a primary source of unusual thoroughness.

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